Just as it was so intricately entwined  with the Angkor civilisation, the rhythm of life of Cambodians today is also dictated to a large extent by the ebb and flow of the Great Lake.

Every year during the monsoon season, the lake fills up and expands by up to six times as it is fed by Mekong's waters through the Tonlé Sap River.

The flow of the river reverses in November when the monsoon ends and water in the lake is drained away. The occasion is marked by a three-day celebration across the whole nation - the Water Festival.

As the lake drains, it leaves behind expanses of fertile land so vital to the agrarian society for padi cultivation. At the same time, almost all the fish consumed by Cambodians is provided by the lake's waters.

When I visited in December 2007, it was barely two weeks after the nation celebrated the Water Festival. This meant that the lake was filled close to capacity... and indeed, it stretched for as far as my eyes could see. Calling it an inland sea would probably be more apt.

The lake may look like just a large expanse of water devoid of human life. That is, of course, far from true.

There were numerous floating villages around the lake, particularly near its banks... One could see many facets of the locals' lives...