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The Maze

"The Maze" is a gaudí-esque bed & breakfast inn, built on top of a hill, right inside a favela (shantytown), which also hosts jazz gigs, original artwork for sale, and even the occasional film shoot.

 

As "slum tourism" gains popularity, places like this have sprung up in (few) peaceful favelas

- but "The Maze" was a pioneer.

 

Besides all, it provides a breathtaking view to Guanabara Bay and the Sugar Loaf. The rooms (only 7) are not that comfortable, but the view is priceless.

This weird, unique hotel,was designed by

Bob Nadkarni, a war cameraman in the Middle East and a BBC TV correspondent in Brazil.

 

As many foreigners, he seems to have fallen in love with Rio and decided to stay here.

He first built a studio home in this favela (he is also a painter), then it became an art gallery, and now he rents rooms for adventurous tourists

(people like Andreas (Buschinho), I guess...).

The Maze hosts a very popular Jazz night every last Friday of the month.

I have never been there, though (why? don't ask me... maybe I just don't know anyone who would join me, and I don't want to go by myself).

 

Anyway, even if you don't like jazz and can't survive without a jacuzzi, 

talking to Bob and listening to his crazy stories is worth the visit.

 

 

(this tabblo was sponsored by Rita Mandarino, who took me to this place - with a bodyguard!)

COMMENTS
Merja-zerga said at 6:38 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Ce blanc nous fait intensément penser à la Grèce, une très belle vue sur ce pain de sucre et la présence de Gaudi ne semble pas très loin effectivement...
Cool pour un bed & breakfast.
Merci Edu.
ThierryKarine
Wildthing said at 6:51 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
What a view. And The Maze looks to be a great place to stay at, for one night, especially on the last Friday of the month, for the jazz. Bob is obviously an eccentric free spirit. Great set, Eduardo.
Rita.Mandarino said at 7:29 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Edu this is one of the most interesting place i have been in a comunity and you are officially invitede to go with me in the next friday of the month but without bodyguard.
Já te levei pra tanto lugar "diferente" esses meses...Nunca fui à noite tb, pode ser divertido, aliás tudo é bom quando a companhia é boa.
NeusinhaGedoz said at 7:37 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Bom dia Eduardo ! Seu relato é interessante e o lugar é, no mínimo, curioso, sui generis, eu diria. Por um momento pensei estar olhando para a Casa Pueblo (pela arquitetura). Lindo, lindo. Obrigado por trazer esta curiosidade para nós. Obrigado Rita !!!
Ebucar said at 8:39 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Eu já ia dizer pra você convidar a Rita para a próxima sexta-feira, mas percebi que isso não será necessário, né não, amiga? Quando a companhia é boa, tudo é bom - INCLUSIVE BRASÍLIA, certo, Rita? Outro dia alguém me disse que isso se aplica a vinho também. Ainda não pude comprovar, mas acredito que seja.
I'm sure Andreas will include this great spot in his next trip to Rio. He'll probably invite you to be his local guide, which you'll do beautifully and with pleasuse, I'm sure. So, be prepared.
This is such unique place in Rio, with such unique view and atmosphere. I would have never imagined. So, I wonder why other places like this cannot exist in other "favelas". Here's my theory (maybe I'll propose to the policy makers): if all the "favelas" in Rio received some 'plastic treatment' (this is in addition to other huge needs that should be addressed, of course), Rio would look somewhat like Greece. Am I going too far?!?!?!?!?! Estou viajando demais?
Pachito said at 9:16 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Awesome place, I would stay there too. Thank you again for sharing the real Rio with us.
Hubbley said at 9:55 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Edu, if you need anyone to go with you next time just call me. I'm available monday thru sunday from january to december. Nice pics. HU
Rita.Mandarino said at 10:03 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Neusinha: Conheci esse lugar durante a campanha da vereadora para a qual trabalho no ano passado. Tínhamos ido à uma palestra no BOPE que fica no topo desse morro ( Tavares Bastos). O Batalhão se instalou nesse local há alguns anos e desde então o tráfico foi expulso. A comunidade é bem segura e tranquila. Foi lá que gravaram o filme "Tropa de elite" entre outras gravações.
Não vou te dizer que conheço todos os morros cariocas mesmo pq são em torno de 1500 favelas misturadas na nossa malha urbana mas conheço de tudo um pouco e lugares pouco visitados ou nunca visitados por turistas, por políticos e até mesmo moradores é o que não falta nessa terra.
Algumas comunidades são mais tranquilas outras nem tanto.
Nossa poderia escrever uma tese sobre esse assunto. Se um dia vier a Rio te levo pra conhecer.
Rita.Mandarino said at 10:06 a.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Eliane:Brasília foi uma surpresa pra mim dessa vez e tenho certeza que foi a companhia. Quanto ao convite de sexta acho que o Edu deve ter coisa melhor pra fazer na sexta à noite...rs
Mirella said at 12:10 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Please, Edu, rent a room for me ,I'll come....I dont' care for the Jacuzzi.and .... I like Jazz ! Ciao
Leftofcenter said at 2:14 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
well this is the original "room with a view"! is this where they translated the song Corcovado:
"and the window that looks out on Corcovado. Oh, how lovely!"
I would certainly visit. I love the Gaudi-esque decor. maybe just for a caipirinha and some jazz...
NeusinhaGedoz said at 2:16 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Rita, que bacana teu relato sobre as coisas do Rio. É... para quem é curioso e está aberto a novos conhecimentos, o leque de oportunidades é maior. Fui ao Rio em 2005, conheci muitos pontos turísticos e outros também. Mas, confesso, o mais interessante se constituiu em passar na frente da Rocinha e fotrografar, fotografar sem parar. Ao voltar para casa, contei pra todo mundo que tinha visitado a Rocinha (que mentira deslavada). Mas é assim ... "tudo vale a pena quando a alma não é pequena". Boa semana pra você.
Waltinho said at 2:58 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Muito interessante; nas fotos panorâmicas, parece até uma montagem ao fundo.
Liliana said at 3:05 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Interessante "mesmo". ¿Cuál sería la traducción... o el nombre es en inglés porque el dueño es británico...?
Rita.Mandarino said at 3:14 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Liliane: "The Maze" quer dizer "o labirinto" em inglês. Concordo totalmente com o nome pq o lugar é de fato um labirinto.
Rita.Mandarino said at 3:18 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Neusinha: Conheço bem a Rocinha, já fiz até um tabblo de lá. Estou para ir lá, talvez na semana que vem e vou levar o Eduardo.Ele já me pediu algumas vezes mas ainda não tivemos oportunidade de irmos juntos. Agurdem o tabblo.
Ebucar said at 5:11 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Meninas, estou começando a achar que estamos monopolizando o tabblo do Eduardo... Espero que ele não se incomode com isso! Edu, cadê você, ôme?!
Liliana said at 5:13 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Oi, Rita!!!! Porque nao colocou o nome em Português...? Nao é pouco coherente com a idéia...? Nao que criticar, só pergunto, acho que o que faz é brilhante.
Eduardo.affonso said at 5:28 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
THIERRY: Yes, this reminds me of the Mediterranean style, particularly Greek architecture.

MIKE: It's not really comfortable, but... who cares, with such a view?

NEUSINHA: Como foi construído sem nenhum planejamento, e sem a mão de um arquiteto, este prédio acaba lembrando mesmo esses outros exemplos de arquitetura vernacular (a Casa Pueblo, coisas do Gaudí, casinhas gregas nas encostas). Não que o Gaudí não fosse arquiteto, ou que a Casa Pueblo não tenha sido "pensada"...

RITA & ELIANE: Podem "duopolizar" o tabblo, sem problema. A princípio não tenho nada pra fazer na sexta, e quero ver se vamos mesmo à Rocinha na semana que vem.

MIRELLA: I think you should stay in a regular hotel and get there just to check the view, drink some caipirinhas and enjoy the music...

ANNELIES: In this case, the windows look on the Sugar Loaf, instead... And you are right about getting there just for the caipirinha & jazz (exactly what I just told Mirella).

LILIANA: O dono é inglês, e batizou o lugar assim mesmo. E eu que achama que "maze" tinha algo a ver com "amazing"...

ELIANE: I totally agree, and I had the same idea. But it is not just a matter of "plastic treatment", there should be a real concept or architecture for these hills. What government has been doing is simply replace wood by brick, which can make the houses safer, yet not more beautiful.
Lange said at 5:42 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
A foto 8 é minha favorita.
RosaneMar said at 6:10 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Belas imagens e informações interessantes. Quando fui ao Rio, em 2004, entrei em uma favela menor, atrás do Cristo Redentor, no bairro Rio Comprido, mas acredito que a Rocinha é a popular.
Liliana said at 6:11 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
También relacioné "maze" con "amazing"... Sei lá!!
Ebucar said at 6:44 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Eu sei que existem zilhões de problemas a serem resolvidos, mas um pouco de urbanização e arquitetura faria muito bem. Eu voto me você!
Ebucar said at 6:44 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Ops! "Eu voto EM você". Ficou até engraçado...
Lifequest22 said at 8:42 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
This seems like a strange concept, but it's probably not really that strange..Any way, it sounds like you enjoyed your visit.
Rita.Mandarino said at 10:33 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
I dont know Edu. I think they have theier proper way of " plastic treatment". Who are rigth? Não acho que o que conhecemos como plasticamente bonito seja o que eles pensam do seu espaço construído. Vc esteve em outra comunidade comigo e viu que as pessoas amam o lugar que moram e acham lindo o espaço que os cercam.
Rita.Mandarino said at 10:36 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Achei muito bom duopolizar seu tabblo, afinal não é pra isso que ele tb serve? rsrs A Rocinha está valendo. Tá me desafiando é?
Fabio_DL said at 10:45 p.m. on Oct 26, 2009:
Concordo com as ideias da Eliane. Eduardo, alem das fotos otimas que voce sempre apresenta, viu so' como voce transforma o ambiente no Tabblo?....rs Todos passam a conversar como se estivessem reunidos sob o mesmo teto, ou sob o mesmo ceu - o ceu azul lindo do Rio de Janeiro.
Janer said at 1:57 a.m. on Oct 27, 2009:
Nice place! Art must come with some danger or else it would just be plain boring...
Dlyra said at 9:21 a.m. on Oct 27, 2009:
Eduardo....simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G. You go beyond the imagination and shows the real life
Love it
WEIMAR said at 3:04 p.m. on Oct 27, 2009:
This story is good presented from you!
Now I could have this vision to listen music (Jazz) there and enjoy the view....someday......;-)
Loes said at 6:27 p.m. on Oct 27, 2009:
An amazing place to stay Eduardo!
Chilla said at 6:28 p.m. on Oct 27, 2009:
What an amazing place and thank you Rita for taking Eduardo to visit!!
A super tabblo of great pictures Eduardo!
SnowWhite said at 6:44 p.m. on Oct 27, 2009:
The views are indeed priceless. Glad you enjoyed your night out. Amazing building .
Moorlerche said at 1:23 a.m. on Nov 3, 2009:
Edu, The photos standing alone are beautiful. But combined with the really well written story behind them something is missing here. I have two things in mind.

1) The photos don't display the contrast between this peaceful looking pub and the poor surroundings. The favellas don't really show in this display.

2) The pub is empty. Someone sitting on the chair, or a good photo of the landlord in his surroundings, doing something like cleaning glasses or chatting with your friend and the bodyguard would have enlivened the pub (that from me, who is hardly displaying any folks at all on photos :-) It's just .... I think it would increase the reality of your story ... enliven the last sentence "...talking to Bob and listening to his crazy stories is worth the visit." ...and maybe a taster of those stories....

Well, these are just ideas I have had, when going through this tabblo. You know you are generally doing a master job in photo "journalism"!
Eduardo.affonso said at 3:34 a.m. on Nov 3, 2009:
Thanks, ANKE! I guess it is the first time since I joined Tabblo that someone gives me real ideas to improve my work.

A Brazilian writer said that "having a style" means simply that you are not able to do things in a different way. It is not realy a value, it's a limitation. "My style" makes me remove people from my photos, unless when it is impossible (Carnival shots, for example). When I photograph architecture (which is my main subject) I do my best not to include people, which seem to be some kind of "noise" to me. That explains the emptiness of this otherwise busy place.

I did take photos of Bob (playing his trumpet!) but didn't find them suitable for this series (that was a mistake, for sure - now I see it would add a lot). As for the contrast, I avoided it as much as I could (it was hard to take some of these photos without shoting also the surroundings).

I see this tabblo would be more lively (?) and interesting if I had done it the way you suggest - but my "style" pushes me into some kind of "visual cleaness", with no room for real life. Maybe that's why I love Charles' photos: he is not seduced by the appearences - it's the real life of Japan that interests him. My compositions involve lines, curves, surfaces - his are more like Altman's movies (with all the interferences available).

Thanks for the tips, my friend!
Eduardo.affonso said at 3:43 a.m. on Nov 3, 2009:
LORRAINE: I haven't been there by night yet. I only enjoyed the afternoon....

CELIA & LOES: Great place, indeed. I would never get there if it wasn't Rita.

HEIDI: I do hope you will enjoy the music, the view and some caipirinhas up there someday. With me as your tour guide, of course!

DANIEL: Does "real life" really exist? Sometimes I doubt it..

JANE: Art and danger are a perfect match!

FÁBIO: Acho que este é o lado "social" do tabblo: quando vc traz um assunto (e não apenas imagens) as pessoas se sentem mais à vontade pra bater papo. Belas fotos (que não faltam nas postagens dos nossos fellow tabbloers) às vezes nos deixam mudos, ou sem saber o que dizer, e não passamos dos elogios de praxe. Acho bom quando os comentários extrapolam um pouco.

LINDA: I like the idea of having pubs and inns in these areas. The view from the hills is the best, and poor people tend to be warmer (except for the drug dealers - who, by the way, are not really poor people...).

ELIANE: Minha praia é outra...

ROSANE: Rocinha é "a" favela, a maior de todas, a mais emblemática, e talvez a de mais difícil solução (pelo porte, pela localização, pelo tráfico). Devo ir lá esta semana (sempre com minha fiel escudeira, a Rita). Aguarde!
Buschinho said at 1:12 p.m. on Nov 10, 2009:
Heidenei !!!
I`m somehow a little bit late ..... mea culpa ;-)
Thanks a lot for sharing the story and photos of the Maze,
Obrigado, danke schön !!!

and of course, Eliane is right ... be prepared :-)

Ciao, Andreas
Eduardo.affonso said at 1:19 p.m. on Nov 10, 2009:
Ich bin fertig, ANDREAS...
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