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Langeoog

There are times when I cannot help the feeling that I am a tiny little bit crazy. This doesn't actually scare me in the least. On the contrary I find myself somehow more likable in these moments.

 

Like last Friday when planning my Saturday trip. While I was still at work I was thinking about doing a tour to somewhere not to far away. Maybe the Lüneburger Heide (heather), maybe some nice forrest or bog nearby. I had a book on hiking and cycling in Northern Germany in my backpack, which I studied on my way home. There were a couple of places I would have liked to go. All of them within reach. But when I opened the door something was buzzing in my ear. "You have never been to East Frisia". Well as this was certainly not around the corner, I dropped the thought.

 

But only till I went on www.bahn.de (the train schedule) one our later. Somehow I found my fingers hacking in the names of the East Frisian Island as goal. - Pling - There was a connection to and from Langeoog, which would alow me 7 hours on the island.

I could get to the heart of German jokes on a days trip. You have to understand, East Frisians are in Germany what Newfis are for Canada. It would only mean getting up at 3 o'clock in the morning and laughable 12 hours train, bus and ferry ride on that day. Return: 23:30 pm. And sure enough I started to pack my backpack with all necessities before going to bed on early Friday evening.

The clock was heartlessly ringing in the middle of the night. But in expection of a pleasurable day at the sea I felt quite energetic, taking a shower, preparing sandwiches, slurping a big mug of coffee, getting into my trecking boots and shutting the door to catch the local bus.

 

55 minutes later I Iooked through a train window onto the nightly Hamburg port. My thoughts were drifting incoherrently. When reaching Bremen an hour later, my only desire was another cup of coffee. God bless the stations. 6:30 am and at least 4 or 5 shops were selling the dark brew. With a hot paper cup in my hand I entered the train to Oldenburg, which I left only 30 minutes later to switch to a train to Sande (must be a small town shortly before Wilhelmshaven) and from there to Esens (even smaller. Opposite to the arriving train the bus to the ferry station was already waiting.

 

Walking over to the dock, I was surprised that there was still a bit of queue in front of the ferry terminal. You have to understand, autumn school vacation were just over, it was foggy though dry, but the sun was not in sight. The season was over - or should have been. However there were still quite a lot of people, who wanted to cross the waters.

The gulls were skrieking and hunting the leaving ferry through the shipping channel.

 
Lachmöwe - Blackheaded Gull - Larus ridibundus

I thought the Dutch border was another three islands away, but it seems I have been mistaken.

Low tide. People were digging in the mudflats. For what? Lugworms? Well, maybe they are harvesting blue mussels and oysters.

 
Großer Brachvogel - Numensis arquata

Curlews were searching the mudflats for food as well as some other birds. Aside from bunches of gulls I spotted oyster fishers, sandpipers and eider ducks on the endless mud and ....

... a lovely seal on the sand quite close to the channel.

Out of the haze appeared the boat coming from Langeoog. This photo makes me longing for mulled whine. Such a look I bought a bottle this afternoon. I will warm up a mug now.

When we finally reached Langeoog the bright coloured island train was already expecting us and took us to the only village on the island.

It's always useful not to look at the map and take a wrong turn, otherwise I would have missed this:

 

East Frisian Thanks Giving decoration!

But soon I found my path into the dunes. A misty softness touched the landscape, which was covered over and over with autumn coloured dog roses and brambles.

 
Brombeere - blackberry / bramble
 
Heckenrose / Hagebutte - dog rose / rose hip
 
View from the distress-at-sea watch tower

From here I turned into the Pirolatalweg (Pirola Valley Path) to enjoy the dune landscape and decided to walk the beach on my way back.

 
Behind this line of dunes is the beach and the open North Sea.

The dune landscape often shifted in colour due to shifting ground growth. The symetric grass on the dunes below looks quite planted, probably to keep the dunes from wandering. For on the one hand they are a safeguard agains stormtides and they other hand they could burry the village of Langeoog, when they start to move in that direction.

One thing that left me wonderous on Langeoog was the air. The softness. The gentleness with which it touched my skinn. Nearly as tender as on Amrum, a North Frisian island way out in the North Sea. Totally unspoiled. Clean. Like velvet. And the temperature. Though it was misty, the air was mild and by some degrees warmer than on the mainland.

What also left me wandering was the lack of migrating birds. I saw but a few flocks of grey geese and later in the evening a flock of starlings. But maybe the birds were feeding out on the mudflats.

 
Graugänse - grey geese - Anser anser
 
It looks nearly painted but it's a photo taken with maximum the digital telezoom of a Lumix FZ 28.
 
Stechpalme - holly - Ilex aquifolium

The filigran remains of some holly leaves.

You can also go by horse carriage around the island, but I preferred walking, even if it meant not seeing everything. The two birds in front are magpies.

Views from the "Aussichtsdüne" (vista dune).

In the background you can sense "Schlopp lake".

I took a hiking and bridle path along Melkhörn and Kleine Schlopp and suddenly was on my own. Sporadically I heard shots from someone hunting.

 
Sanddorn - sallow thorn / sea buckthorn

Sallow thorn is a common coastal berry bush, which is brightening autumn time with its blazing berries. The berries are eatable and rich of vitamin C. They are generally used for jam, juice and liqueur.

 
Graugänse - grey geese

Even if the photo quality is bad I cannot help but loving this collection of yellows, browns, reds and greens in just one place.

When I came out onto the main bicycle way across the island I looked out over flat marsh country and the mudflat sea.

Dog roses in autumn are a delight for the eye. And between the rose hips there were still some late pink flowers abloom.

I have never seen this kind of insect before. Has anybody got a clue? Some kind of fly or bee or wesp?

 
The dots are feeding birds on the mudflats
 
grey goose

I arrived at the "Molkerei Ostende" (east end dairy) together with three carriages, one of them drawn by two lovely Frisians. Parked behind them were a bunch of bikes finely atuned in the same shade of colour as the carriage. However the horse seamed to find these means of transport a laugh.

The dairy was my turning point. From here I crossed over to the North Sea side to enjoy two hours of plain beach walking back to to the village of Langeoog

After another short walk through the dunes I reached the beach at low tide. The water was retreating and the sandy planes were growing slowly.

 
view west (walking direction)

This is the overpopulated Federal Republic of Germany. We encourage the main body of our people to travel to the warmth of Spain to enjoy the vastness of our quiet beaches on our own.

 
view north
 
Strandgut - flotsam

Treading through bunches of shells causes a nice creaky sound under your feet.

 
View east - do you see the idea of blue sky between the clouds :-) ?
 
crows on the beach

The dot in the distance...

...proves to be through the tele zoom

another reveller of the quiet sounds of the waves

...of the space

... and sand

...and quietness...

 

...and of decisive walking!

Like many beach dwellers I often forget to look and at the sea, because my eyes are fixed on the ground looking for treasures like beautiful stones, mussles, snails and amber (I have never found any of the latter apart from in a shop window).

 
Wellhornschnecke - common whelk
 
same motive with just a little change in perspective

Looking aground was worth its while. Otherwise I might have tramped onto this strange wind sculpture.

Now, my dear friends, you have to get through two hours of sand hiking with your eyes to appreciate the sore muscles I had next day. I could hardly move on Sunday and refused to leave my chair though the weather was fine outside.

 
The beach is getting crowded.
 
Everybody seemed to be walking in pairs.
 
While the beach behind me was totally empty then.
 
Sanderling - sanderling - Calidris alba

Here and there sandlings were rushing over the beach and into the water, downing their bills into the sand to check for some seaside delicacies.

Elsewhere gulls took a foot bath on washed over sandbanks.

This is part of the sea bed. The ripples in the sand you see here are miniature tideways where the water keeps coming and going during the tides. It also gives you an idea how far the tide has alread drawn back and how much smaller the beach wil be under high tide.

 
This troup of sanderlings was showing knees like they were practicing a dance-formation.

 

Moreover a sudden necessaty for cleanliness seamed to have occurred. Was there an event coming up today. I wonder, if these were males or females. In the world of birds it's generally the males, who are dressing up, aren't they?

 
Heerendünen
 
The beach was getting narrower...
 
...and more crowded. I was getting close to Langeoog village.

Truly, what is a beach walk without a blackheaded gull in the waves. They are such common birds, but what would the air be like without their skreak and their graceful flight.

A sure sign of being back to civilization is when you encounter roofed wicker beach chairs on the beach at the end of October (which is definitely off season). I entered the town near the health resort (spa) at the north eastern end of the island. Dog roses were lining the path.

 
Some left over pears for the hungry hiker.

At least here is a bunch of multicoloured beach gladness prepared to go into hibernation.

 
A restaurant on Barkhausenstraße (Barkhausen street)
 
Even on the balconies you find THEM!
 
Barkenhausenstraße at the corner to Hauptstraße (Main street)
 
A little park on Hauptstraße

The island church was built in 1890. It is probably the 5th church standing on this site. The former built in 1859 had been much smaller. Others were probably destroyed by stormtides. For German speakers the website of the island church is a far better source of information about the islands history than the official website of Langeoog. Have a try on http://www.inselkark.de/Inselkirche/Kirchenbau.htm

It's quite good.

 
St. Johannes evangelic church

The first thing welcoming me when entering the church was the warm light of the peace candle holder. I felt immediatly at home, for this is actually a typical object you find in Swedish churches. These sort of candle holders have their origin in the world church conference of 1968 in Swedish town of Upsala, where the center of the Swedish church is situated.

The altar picture was painted by Hermann Buß in 1988/1989, when the church was restaurated. It presents a northern German landscape with high sky. The ship in the background bears similarities to the island ferries. The floor in the forground looks like a ship deck. A table with brilliant white table cloth is left empty, chairs standing in disorder, some clothes have been left hanging over their backrest. The people have left to watch the sinking or run aground ship. Each person standing on their own, not talking, mostly turning their back to the contemplator. The sinking ship is dirty white and shows significant signs of decay.

 
pulpit and babtistery

At 5:30 pm the time was due to leave the island. I dare say despite the long travel time I deeply enjoyed my day and am glad that I took my time to get to Langeoog.

 

Langeoog, 24 October 2009

Last pictures from the boat:

COMMENTS
Pkeener said at 9:31 p.m. on Oct 30, 2009:
I am still trying to digest this. It's just an amazing pictoral. The story you tell is so entralling as I scroll down and look at your Killer photos, I am thinking. What a sensitive talent you are. Witty, artistic and intelligent Tabblo.
Lageho said at 2:44 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Underbara bilder och en underbar inledning. Du är inte bara fotograf utan lite av en författare också. Min favorit bland alla bilder är färjan i dimman, men naturligtvis så är hela tabblon en favorit.
Chilla said at 4:14 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
You are a truly intrepid traveller! As always your wonderful narrative enriches your beautiful photographs. You may be alone on your walk but you relive it in the company of your Tabblo friends! I can only concur with Pam's words, a marvelous tabblo!
WEIMAR said at 4:51 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
What for a DAY!!!!
WEIMAR said at 5:15 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Ich denke diese Insekten auf den schönen gelben Blüten sind Schwebfliegen....
sieh hier
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schwebfliegen
Mannyzuniega said at 6:48 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
simply beautifull !!
Moabjeeper said at 7:16 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
This photojournalism is too much to absorb at one sitting. Great work.
NeusinhaGedoz said at 8:58 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Wonderful !!! Magnificient !!! Thank you !!!
RosaneMar said at 11:34 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Magnific tabblo and pictures Andreas!!!
Chaitiamma said at 11:43 a.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
All the above is worth getting up at 3.00am. This is an exceptionally good Tabblo !!! My personal TOD !!!
Ira said at 12:35 p.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Huge tabblo!
Ira said at 12:36 p.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Happy Halloween!
Fabio_DL said at 12:57 p.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Spectacular work, Anke! I will return later for more comments.
Moorlerche said at 3:55 p.m. on Oct 31, 2009:
Thanks Pam, for these cheering words at 2 am, when I had just finished and was on my way to bed. Simply reading your spontaneous comment was worth all the work.

Tack så hemsk mycket Lars. Jag tänkte faktisk desamma när jag såg den där båten kommer ut ur dimman. Det hade något overkligt.

Vielen Dank, Heidi! Ich hatte auch überlegt, ob es eine Schwebfliege ist, aber ich glaube dafür ist sie zu schlank. Außerdem irritiert mit das Muster am Hinterteil. Sowohl Schwebfliegen als auch Wespen haben Streifen. Bei diesem Tierchen sieht es anders aus. Habe auch im Internet unter Fliegen und Wespen bisher nichts passendes gefunden.

Celia, Bob, Fabio, Neusinha you are such dear supporters. Thanks very much. And also thanks to you Mannyzuniega, Ira and Rosane (pssst Rosane....it's Anke, the lovely northern German version of Anne....Andreas is Buschis...and no, he is not Patrick, even if they look alike ;-)
HtD said at 2:50 a.m. on Nov 1, 2009:
Sehr schöne Foto's von Ost Friesland Anke. Naturlich ein favorites Tabblo. Ich liebe deine Camera arbeit.
Wildthing said at 7:04 a.m. on Nov 1, 2009:
A wonderful trip to an amazing place. Excellent photography, and an interesting narrative of your adventure.
Moorlerche said at 12:57 p.m. on Nov 1, 2009:
Vielen Dank, Henk! Ich werde mich bemühen, auch weiter schöne Plätze in Norddeutschland aufzuspüren. Gestern zum Beispiel war ich in einem Traum von einem Wald in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. Bin immer noch ganz berauscht davon. Darfst Dich auf ein Naturwunder freuen.

Thanks Mike, I am always glad to see your kind repliques here.
ConnieL said at 1:06 p.m. on Nov 1, 2009:
What a wonderful day you had!! I so enjoy your photos and the narrative you add. This was so much fun.
Loes said at 4:47 p.m. on Nov 1, 2009:
Just beautiful!!!
Fabio_DL said at 11:06 p.m. on Nov 1, 2009:
Dear Anke, This is another of your GREAT Tabblos! We start enjoying the excellent photos and then you kind of sequester our attention also to your wonderful prose! You covered all bases on the Frisian Island - it reminded me of the classic novel Robinson Crusoe, by Daniel Defoe. It is amazing how the island stays almost intact to the effects of civilization. The misty scenes are so beautiful; at the same time, they are mysterious. Your attention to the details is super! You give all the names of the exquisite flowers, fruits, birds. I am imagining myself on Frisian Island with the assignment to name all the species, and before the last boat leaves the island. It would be the perfect nightmare for me...LOL. It is very interesting to see men and birds digging into the same mud and looking for food. It is very funny when we read that the horses are joking about the bikes. It is very peaceful to see your beautiful smile on the very last picture of this wonderful Tabblo! I say n times to you: Thanks so much!
Erich said at 5:36 a.m. on Nov 2, 2009:
Das ist schier unglaublich! Wundervolle Aufnahmen und ein wirklich beeindruckendes Tabblo (wo nimmst Du nur die Zeit her????)
Moorlerche said at 4:35 p.m. on Nov 2, 2009:
Conni, Loes, Fabio and Rainer thank you so very much.

Fabio, you are such a dear! Always taking excessive time read everything through and to express your thoughts in such descriptive way. I appreciate that very much. By the way you are very welcome to send me a note, incase you discover some spelling mistakes. Most of these textes have been done during the "night-shift". I dare say there are a couple of words missing or misspelled words.
Merja-zerga said at 1:30 p.m. on Nov 3, 2009:
Des images et des mots remplis de poésie, regarder et lire se transforme en rêve!
Nous vous avons suivis tout au long de cette merveilleuse journée et en arrivant sur la dernière
photo, nous étions persuadés d'avoir été avec vous durant toute la ballade.
Mention spéciale pour le chandelier de paix...sublime!!!
Merci et bravo Anke.
ThierryKarine
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