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Eurotrip 2002 Day 6: Regensburg to Rothenburg
 
The medieval walled city of Rothenburg-over-the-Tauber, in Bavaria, Germany

The last day of a road trip can be a sad affair. You know that your adventure will be finally over and you try to pack in as many great activities and sights-to-see as possible. This day would be no different. It was moody, rainy and cold, but we vowed to make the best of it and not let meteorological events affect our dispositions. We traveled throughout northern Bavaria, from the great town of Regensburg which was once a Celtic village (Radisbona), later a Roman outpost (Ratisbon) and still later the seat of government for the Holy Roman Empire, to the famed city of Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber, a city still surrounded by intact medieval walls and towers and quite possibly guarding the best "Crime and Punishment" type museum in all of Europe (ie, not cheesy like many torture museums elsewhere!). Both cities are UNESCO World Heritage sites and are worth the visit if you're anywhere between Frankfurt and München (Munich).

 
Regensburg as viewed from the 12th century Steinerne Brücke (bridge).
 
Where the old city wall was, with Romanesque tower gate.

Regensburg is not the kind of German city that gets a lot of foreign visitors, so if you want to see a typical German town with untouristy Roman, Gothic and Celtic (yes... Celts! They weren't just in the British Isles, you know?) history mixed in, then this is a great place to start.

 
Regensburg Cathedral
 
The biblical story of David and Goliath is told from the side of this building in the heart of Regensburg

Germany lost over 200,000 Jews to the Nazi regime which lasted for 12 years between 1933 and 1945. Many fled before the carnage began but many also remained hoping the bad times would "pass over".

 

The bad times didn't go away.

 

Synagogues were burned, Jews were deported or sent to concentration camps to starve, work to death or be executed. The Nazis spread the Holocaust to neighboring countries when Germany started WWII in 1939, invading Poland. When all was said and done it is believed 10 million Jews and those deemed "undesirable", including homosexuals, mentally disabled, and others, perished.

Above marks where a synagogue was burned down by the Nazis on Kristallnacht. Kristallnacht means, literally, "Night of Crystal" but figuratively it suggests the sound of shattered crystal objects and thousands of windows that the Nazi thugs broke on that November evening in 1938. Memorials to these events and victims are not uncommon but are often overlooked as German memorials tend to be very understated and somberly marked with dark stone.

 

Regensburg had a strong Jewish community since the 10th century and starting in 1945 many survivors of the Holocaust returned and vowed to rebuild. Recent excavations in the heart of Regensburg reveal where an old Gothic-era synagogue was located, thus adding to the excitment of this newly thriving community.

 
The old Abbey of St. Emmeram which is now known also as Scloss Thurns und Taxis (Castle Thurns and Taxis)

Castle Thurns-and-Taxis has been the home of one of the wealthiest families in Germany (and Europe for that matter) since 1738. The Thurn-and-Taxis family are famous throughout Europe for building castles, breweries and their almost monopolistic control of the postal systems in the 16th century. One of their members, Ruggiano de Tassis (Italian for Taxis) founded the Italian postal service. The Italians have the Medicis and my guess is the Thurn-and-Taxis family is the German equivelant.

 

A snippet from Wikipedia: The mail monopoly of Thurn and Taxis was central to the plot of The Crying of Lot 49 by Thomas Pynchon, which deals with a secret rival mail system W. A. S. T. E., developed by the fictional Trystero family.

 
Leaving the rain and drizzle of Regensburg behind, we drove several hours on the Autobahn to get to Rothenburg at a reasonable time.

Leaving the rain and drizzle of Regensburg behind, we drove several hours on the Autobahn to get to Rothenburg at a reasonable time.

 

Rothenburg-over-the-Tauber (-ob-der-Tauber as the Germans say) is, in some way, similar yet opposite of what Regensburg is. While both are UNESCO World Heritage sites, Regensburg is very un-touristy while Rothenburg revels in its mythos and quintessential Bavarian and German attractions that bring tourists by the hundreds of thousands every year. Summer is crazy from what I hear, with tourists from all over the world packing the Town Hall Square to sign up for walking tours of the walled city and hear about how the city was saved in 1631, during the Thirty Years War, when Burgermeister Nusch (City Mayor Nusch, representing then-Protestant Rothenburg) proved to the Imperial Count Tilly (representing the Catholic Holy Roman Empire) who was preparing to sack and burn the city, that he could drink a full tankard of wine in one gulp. Apparently it worked, because Rothenburg is still here today preserved in all of its glory. It sits above the Tauber River, along the Romantic Road, the old highway that led to Rome.

 

When I visited in early May, Rothenburg was very quiet, with only a view tour groups. My guess is that this is the best time to visit if you want to avoid the madness of Summer.

The town is completely surrounded by walls. If you wanted to, you could walk around the entire center of the city atop these 20 feet high walls. I walked around about half of the town in about an hour and a half.

 

Also, a little less known until you get there is that the town is mostly pedestrians only. So, except for a few areas along and near the walls, and the occasional horse-drawn carriage and official city vehicle, there are virtually no car noises anywhere, which adds to the feeling of what this town might have been like 1000 to 500 years ago.

 
View of the city from one corner of the wall
 
Outside the walls the savages live with their modern houses and street lamps!
 
The main gate to the city

As Rothenburg is famous for its walled-city, the area around Rothenburg is famous for its natural beauty.

 

Below the city is the river Tauber, and the village of Detwang established in 960.

 

While the city of Rothenburg and its environs were spared bombings during WWII, the only Romanesque building to survive the ages is the Peter and Paul Church, built in 968, in Detwang.

 
The walls of Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber overlook the Church of Peter & Paul, 968 AD
 
It was a rainy drizzly day as you can tell in this photo overlooking the Tauber river valley

After these final shots, my mom and I packed it in and headed back home to Hannover. Whirlwind roadtrips aren't always the best way to really get to know a city. You don't learn where all of the great places to eat or people watch are. You can't take in a people's culture or a city's way of life. However, the roadtrip is a great way to scout out where you want to go again.

 

Problem is, I want to revisit all of the them!

 

I hope you've enjoyed my six days in Germany and the Czech Republic, and it is my desire that these tabblos and photos help motivate the viewer to go on his or her own roadtrip, whether it be to explore their own neighboring towns and regions, or embark on an adventure in some foreign land.

 

I wish you many safe travels!

-Jeff

COMMENTS
Cruising said at 9:29 p.m. on Jan 1, 2007:
These shots are great. I look forward to see the final version.
Caitbrowne said at 11:05 p.m. on Jan 1, 2007:
Pretty greens...and I have made a 2007 resolution to come up with a question that you would not know the answer to
Abking said at 1:32 a.m. on Jan 2, 2007:
Great photos and narrative. Thanks for the road trip!
JackHolmes said at 8:33 a.m. on Jan 2, 2007:
neat travelogue; combo of solid images and narrative. jh
DEE-Trow said at 11:34 a.m. on Jan 2, 2007:
I have totally enjoyed this adventure. Thanks for letting us travel with you. Hope we weren't too much trouble! Haha
Jillcdunn said at 1:06 p.m. on Jan 2, 2007:
I have really enjoyed reading the narratives that accompany your gorgeous photos. I think history is so fascinating and your pictures really help bring it to life.
Chiloedream said at 4:04 p.m. on Jan 2, 2007:
Un GRAND tabblo Jeff, du talent, de belles images, bravo et merci.
Mashpee_Paula said at 7:15 p.m. on Jan 2, 2007:
Thank you Jeff! Beautiful pictures, I have enjoyed this adventure, too! Happy New Year!
GeorgePL said at 12:19 a.m. on Jan 3, 2007:
Jeff, I've really been enjoying this series. Thanks for the trip. Good luck Caitlin. I hope you stump Jeff good :)
LindaWilliamson said at 7:38 a.m. on Jan 3, 2007:
Oh My God these are wonderful...
Pkeener said at 3:21 p.m. on Jan 3, 2007:
JEFF This has been such a treat, I will have to view this several times before it all sinks in... Beauty, sadness, history, arcitecture, emotions...Whew! Thanks you so much for sharing.
Thebeautifullife said at 3:19 p.m. on Jan 4, 2007:
What an AWESOME Tabblo! terrific work and I appreciate your effort put into it---your words made it that much more enjoyable/educational....great job! (great pics!!)
MindyF. said at 6:40 p.m. on Jan 6, 2007:
A great Tabblo! The narrative adds so much to the photos. Love the last photo! Your entire trip would make a great Tabblo book!
Melaniethornton said at 10:27 p.m. on Jan 7, 2007:
Thanks for sharing Jeff! Great photos and history, I'm with you... wanting to revisit!
Eduardo.affonso said at 9:16 a.m. on Jan 8, 2007:
I've visited these places a looooooong time ago (1983, last century, last millenium...), thanks for taking me back there, and showing me angles that I had never seen.
MANSER said at 3:54 p.m. on Jan 19, 2007:
splendid report photographs, superb presentation, it is professional, I like much.
JoanW said at 1:47 a.m. on Jan 21, 2007:
Beautiful travel photos Jeffrey. I love all the European architecture and the rooflines of the various town and cities. We were fortunate enough to have a 19 day tour of Europe last May, and I have just posted a tabblo of Prague, which is a beautiful city which we really enjoyed.
Your photos are really excellent, with sharpness and good clarity and the colours are excellent too. I must return to check out more of your work another day. We were lucky with our weather and out of the 19 days, we had just 2 mornings of rain while we were travelling between cities, the rest of the time it was warm and sunny, as you will see if you look at any of my Euro tabblos.
Cheers, Joan
MistyGirl said at 8:57 p.m. on Jan 25, 2007:
Thank you Jeff for my trip down memory lane. My family used to live in Germany, and I have been to Rothenburg. Your photos brought back many many happy memories! I took the whole 6 day tour, all were great! Thank you for sharing!
Katerina said at 8:55 p.m. on Jan 31, 2007:
Jeff this reminded me of my trip to NW GE, which I will definitely turn into a tabblo or 20! I esp. like your shots of the country - so green. ANd the towers are beautiful. GE is definitely one of my favorite European countries.
Engelgrafik said at 8:38 a.m. on Feb 1, 2007:
Katerina, yes northwest Germany is very beautiful... entire northern part of Germany is a bit like the Netherlands with windmills and canals all over. Tiny little villages that appear out of nowhere (very strict zoning). I've only been to that area a few times. They speak a very different dialect... at first I thought we were IN the Netherlands but it's Platt-Deutsch, or "Flat German". I've only been there once in 1991... don't really have many pictures, except for Bremen / Bremerhavn.
Hollyridger said at 10:52 a.m. on May 17, 2007:
Somehow I missed this tabblo when it was first posted. Superb photography. great narrative and I love the layout. Despite the inclement weather you managed to catch some very interesting light, Jeff. Your narrative is so interesting, enough to make me consider a trip to that part of Europe. Very well done...
Writeguy47 said at 7:55 p.m. on May 17, 2007:
Wonderfully depicted and narrated. Hope I get to see it some day. I'm just now reading the history of the Celts and I'm sure it would surprise everyone to know that the Celts ranged as far east as present-day Turkey, west into Spain, south into Italy, and north into the British Isles. They were fierce fighters and even bested the mightly Roman army a time or two. Cheers!
Domieb2 said at 8:19 p.m. on Jan 26, 2008:
I am in awe. Your photography is just brilliant.
MFDuquette said at 6:24 a.m. on Mar 26, 2009:
We are currently planning our trip to Germany and Bohemia and trying desperately between Regensburg and Rothenburg. We've been to Rothenburg (spent the night inside the city) We are taking my parents this time. THe nice thing about Rothenburg is that it's "complete" and everything inside the walls is "old". Is Regensburg still "complete" I don't think they have walls.

Anyway - your perspective on Regensburg would be appreciated.
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