On Monday March 12th, we spent a busy day with Ray and Melinda, camp hosts from the Virgin River Gorge near St. George.   We  warmed up by a short visit to the Glen Canyon Dam  and then off to the viewpoint for Horseshoe Bend (see earlier Tabblo).   Then we headed farther south of Page to explore the Waterholes Canyon on Navajo land (permits required).  Waterholes is bridged by highway 89 about 12 miles south of town and is very accessible.  The photo left shows Ray in one of the more photogenic areas of the slot.  Below: Convolutions of water carved sandstone just wide enough for our group to pass.

     Diane investigates a side-slot off of the main canyon.  We progressed maybe a mile upcanyon from our starting point at the highway bridge.   We stopped when we encountered a drop-off (above us) of about 10 feet.   We didn't have the will to attempt a climbing method or want to risk the loss of skin in the attempt, and there was more to explore down-canyon anyway.   We retraced our steps back toward the bridge (below left) and studied the desert lizards along the way.     The Audubon Guide shows a wide variety of these, but it is very hard to differentiate amoung them.

    The lower canyon (west of the bridge) is more challenging and requires the use of ropes, harnesses, and canyoneering skills.   We managed to explore a fair way without these things.   The guidebook said that we would be stopped by a rusted old car.   We did encounter a junked car, but the rushing water mixed with sand left it more polished rather than rusted.   It was in a position that allowed it to be used as a climbing tool for a 12 foot drop-off rather than an obstacle.   Left we see Ray and a skeptical Melinda using the frame to descend the otherwise difficult drop.    There was no way to identify the wreck, with all of the parts too mangled to recognize.   We pushed on for maybe a 150 yards when we came to a deeper, narrower drop that could not be descended without ropes.   Down canyon  eventually empties into the Colorado, but to proceed requires technical canyoneering skills and a boat pick up and car at Lee's Ferry far down river.

LEE's FERRY:

     After exploring Waterholes, we packed into the car to make the 40 minute trip to historic Lee's Ferry.  This is the starting point for virtually all of the Grand Canyon raft trips that range from 3 to 18 days in duration (at right).

Below:  we dip our feet in the 47 degree (year round) water of the Colorado.

Diane finishes her inspection of one of the remaining buildings from the ferry's heyday.  An excentric miner named Spencer was responsible for much of the developement here.  

     Grand Canyon river runners can take in the beautiful scenery as they prepare for their exciting ride through one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

Below:   Remnants of the local history and a view westward (downriver) from the lower elevations of the cliff hugging Spencer Trail.

     Spencer was looking for a shorter route to bring coal  to fire is mining operation.   Legend says that Spencer pointed his mule up the cliff and whipped him forward to find a path up the jagged and steep cliff.   The Spencer Trail was the result of the mule's route finding skills, and indeed is suitable route to the top of an apparently impassable cliff band.    The route ascends 1500 feet in 2.2 miles of switchbacks, all of which has direct sun exposure (hot).   .

   Charles H. Spencer used this steam b oiler in 1911-12  to attempt the mechanized extraction of gold from the chinle clay nearby.  In addition, a paddle wheeled steamship was brought in to help bring coal to the site.   The steamship was found to be underpowered for the task and was subsequently abandoned after a few years with some of the remnants still visible on the riverbank.

   The lower left photo shows the Colorado upriver and southeastward.   On the right side of the river can be seen the cut in the hill that was the old wagon road to and from the ferry crossing.     The sloping feature upper right is a "sand slide" that developed in the lee of the mountain that it flanks.    The Spencer Trail climbs the cliff on the left from which the photo was taken.

The photo above is a view to the west and shows the Paria River entering from the right.   Somehow, this river managed to cut it's way thru the Paria Plateau and the towering Vermillion Cliffs.

THE SPENCER TRAIL:   Left is our group starting the ascent of the Spencer Trail.   No part of the trail is visible from below.   Much of the anticipation of the hike was to discover how a path could possibly manage its way up the steep cliff to the top!

Below:  The view to the west from a higher perspective.

Below right:  The view upriver with a fishing boat returning to the ramp.

Diane charges still further up the trail.   When will it end?   Yes, I would have turned around, but she seemed undaunted by the sheer face and the amount of it still above.   The time is now about 3pm and we are getting the full force of the sun.

     THE SUMMIT AT LAST!    We finally crested the ridge and found ourselves between two rocky peaks.   In the saddle before us was a large rock cairn that held erect a very weathered wooden pole.... a monument from those that made the ridgecrest before us.  

     We were rewarded by a great view over the crest of the landscapes to the east.    We now realized that  we were very close (relatively) to Page as the crow flies.... but very distant by the roadway.

     Below:   The Glen Canyon and the Horseshoe Bend area in the foreground, Page Arizona and the Navajo Generating Station, Tower Butte, and Navajo Mountain in the distance.

Linie and Diane at the summit crest.

Below Left:   Diane made the descent and stands at the bottom of the trail with the Spencer Trail cliff face in the background.

     Above:     Remnants of a by-gone era.   After extremely hard work in a hostile environment, the mining was never profitable and finally was abandoned.  

      John D. Lee, for which the ferry was named  had much earlier left the area under the threat of a federal army on the approach.   Lee was nervous about his alleged involvement in the Mountain Meadows Massacre some years earlier in 1857.   The army was sent to investigate and restore order and bring justice.     Lee left the area with the arrival of the rumor that the federals were on their way.

     Left:   The invisible Spencer Trail climbs this rock wall.

     Formations on near the roadway as we left Lee's Ferry.

     Below are a few other photos from the day.   It was an beautiful buy exhausting day.... we arrived back in Page at sunset, ready for a good meal and a good nights rest.